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A Good Walk in Baja Golf...
 

By The BajaGringo
Column originally appeared in the Baja Times  June 1, 2008

Golfing Partners
Mark Twain, the pen name of Samuel Langhorne Clemens, is credited with the phrase, “Golf, a good walk spoiled” and would later become the title of a book referring to the frustrations one might experience with the game. As an average hacker who enjoys spending time out on the local links I decided to take a look into the history of the remark a bit more.  

I did find a few sources that dispute whether or not Mark Twain even made the remark but over the nearly century that has gone by since his passing, it seems to be widely accepted that this quip be credited to the creator of characters like Tom Sawyer and Huckleberry Finn. I have little to offer either in defense or support of Twains “owning” the quote, but I have often wondered why anybody who has played the game could really feel that way?

Unlike some sports, golf does not require that you be in top physical condition. Looking down at my own waistline that has increased a size or two is proof enough that most anyone able to walk around the block can take up this game. I have had to chuckle watching some as young as four or five, out on the links with dad on a Sunday afternoon attempting to make contact with that small, elusive white ball, cheeks turning red in frustration. I have also learned a lesson or two in patience, persistence and longevity while having the pleasure of sharing a round with golf veterans in their eighties and even a couple in their nineties.

Golf Courses in Baja California, Mexico
My big swing with a Callaway driver might even reach 300 yards down the fairway, passing my elderly playing partner by 80 to 100 yards or even more from the tee. He would probably compliment me on my long drive and recall out loud how he once was able to hit the ball so far in his younger days. A seven iron, a wedge and two or three putts later I would finally find the bottom of the hole.  Walking off the green, I would catch the wise smile of the gentlemen who I had left far behind off the tee and yet had still managed to beat me by a stroke or two. He was teaching me a lesson in golf and life that many of us who love this game have shared at one time or another. The game of golf is played mostly between your ears and why this old Gringo will probably never threaten Tiger Woods.

I spent some time searching for any historical record as to whether Mark Twain even played golf on a regular basis enough to have a true sense of the game. After an hour or so spent surfing online, all that I was able to find was a reference made dating back to January 5, 1910. Twain had traveled to Bermuda, staying at the Bay House in Hamilton, home of the American vice-consul, William H. Allen. Seventy four years of age at the time and bothered by severe chest pains, he played a round of golf with Woodrow Wilson, who at the time was president of Princeton University. I could not find much more written about the event but I could not help but note that the date was only a few months prior to his passing in New York on April 12, 1910.

I suppose that if I were to play a round a golf with severe chest pain, I too might have shared Twains reportedly negative view of the days exercise. He was also credited with the quote, “Giving up smoking is the easiest thing in the world. I know because I've done it thousands of times.” It is not difficult to comprehend how his negative view of golf might have had more to do with the after effects of a lifetime of smoking than a slice off the tee, shanked 5 iron, ball in the hazard or a 3 putt, four times in a row. Maybe if he had smoked less and walked a few more golf fairways his perspective might have been different.

Golfing at Club Campestre in Tijuana
The more I play golf, the greater my understanding becomes of this wonderful game where one has the opportunity to share some special time with close friends. Golf is much more than just a sport or a simple game. It is a true test of skill, mental toughness, patience, a little luck and sometimes just pure will. One of the greatest tests in golf is not measured in how long you drive the ball, how well you read the greens or even how low your final score. It is measured in your character as a person, playing partner and competitor. Golf is a game of honor. It is the only professional sport played that I know of where competitors are expected to penalize themselves where a violation has incurred. If you are familiar with the rules of golf you will know that the rules may be a bit complicated and difficult to interpret on occasion, leaving “room to wiggle”, when argued. That is where a players character comes into play and by which his or her true sense of sportsmanship and the very game of golf is gauged.

I read that Arnold Palmer once said, “Let me play three holes of golf with anybody and I’ll tell you all about their character”. The longer I play this game the more I have come to understand the insightful wisdom of that remark.

Here on the northern Baja coastline I am blessed to be within close driving distance to three wonderful, unique and challenging golf courses. Real del Mar is a beautiful course along the coast between Playas de Tijuana and Rosarito Beach. It is located within the Real del Mar - Marriott resort and offers a good challenge to golfers of all levels. Lots of trouble awaits you with tall grass, water and OB throughout the course. I have played some of my best rounds there without ever
Real del Mar - Bajamar Golf Resorts
pulling out my driver and it may be good advice for your first round. Bring extra balls too. A dozen may not be enough. Hole number 12 is always a big challenge and escaping with a bogie feels like a birdie on some days.

Down the road, about 25 minutes south of Rosarito Beach lies the beautiful course of Bajamar; located within the Bajamar seaside resort. This exquisite course design has made many “Best of” lists and is often called the Pebble Beach of Baja. The 27 hole layout is divided into Vista, Lagos and Oceano. Whichever 18 holes you choose to play I recommend that you play Oceano as one of the legs. That stretch of ocean front golf is among the most breathtaking I have ever experienced and the fun of betting drinks on the tee shot on hole number five, a 170 yard gut check over the ocean with a strong afternoon ocean breeze has made a lot of cash change hands on occasion. Playing Bajamar is always a special event and I like to cap off the day with a stop at La Fonda on the terrace. Nothing beats watching a classic Baja Pacific sunset to live music with a steak and lobster dinner with a Cadillac Margarita while tallying up the winners and losers, counting skins, greenies, rabbits and birdies.

All of these courses are great, but my favorite 18 holes of golf in northern Baja are found at Club Campestre in Tijuana, with its long and interesting history. The story is a fascinating one and I have found that many, even some members of the club itself are not aware of how rich a history Campestre owns claim to. Many think that the course was built back in 1948, which was when Campestre, the Country Club was originally founded.

The truth is that the golf course dates back to 1927 and was originally part of the Agua Caliente Club complex that became popular for Gringos traveling south across the border during prohibition. What may be even more surprising (I have won a few bets on this one) is that the original course design of William Bell from 1927 was redesigned by the legendary golf course designer Dr. Alister Mackenzie in 1932.

Club Campestre - Tijuana Country Club
Yes, you read that right. The same Alister Mackenzie who one year later would meet with Bobby Jones and Clifford Roberts in Augusta, Georgia and where 18 of the most sacred holes in golf would be created. Nearly eighty years later and not a single Masters tournament is played each spring without mentioning Dr. Mackenzie’s name and his relationship to the Augusta course and history. I smile each year as I hear Alister’s name be remembered and take pride in that we have our own Baja connection with that special place in golf history.

Another interesting part of the Campestre story is the long list of famous names and personalities from professional golf, sports, Hollywood, business and politics who have walked the 18 holes that I am allowed to share. The Agua Caliente Open was routinely broadcast via radio into the US in its early days and attracted all of the big names of golf at the time. Gene Sarazen, one of only five golfers ever to win the career grand slam in golf majors, won the open event in Tijuana back in 1930.

What really draws me to this historic course is what Campestre offers golfers today. Ernesto Perez Acosta, the director of golf at Campestre runs a world class organization and the course is always undergoing improvement projects you may witness on any visit. Manicured fairways, perfect greens that roll true and a very challenging layout make this a course any golfer would love to play. What
Ernesto Perez Acosta - Pro
keeps me coming back, round after round is all the people working at Campestre; the real “faces” of the club.

It all starts with Ernesto, who we love to just call “Pro” and I am very privileged to call mi amigo. Walking into the pro shop, Ana - a great golfer herself, welcomes us with a kiss on the cheek and somehow manages to keep all of our handicaps straight. Heading out to the first tee, Manzo awaits to make sure that we get started on time. He runs a tight ship and is always available for a quick tip as to course conditions or a joke as to why your golf shoes don’t match your outfit.

One of the real highlights of playing Campestre are the caddies. I love to walk the course and having them carry your bag as well as offering tips in course management and the right break on the greens makes even this seasoned hacker feel like a pro on the PGA tour for a day.

On the course there are several nice folks awaiting you to provide a zesty Bloody Mary, cold beer or a hot burrito to match your game, mood and appetite. Working at the food stop off the 12th green, Gaby is always there to cook up anything you want with the biggest smile and prettiest eyes you would ever hope to see.  Somehow she even makes you forget that five you marked down on the last par three.

Campestre Country Club - Tijuana, Baja California, Mexico
All around the course you will come across a small battalion of hard working folks who we have to thank for keeping Campestre in such immaculate conditions. They are all very friendly, quick to smile and tip their hats as we pass by. Coming down the 18th fairway one sees Luis working with struggling hackers out on the driving range to straighten that bad slice or shank with a smile and the patience of Job.

Campestre takes great pride in its state of the art teaching facilities, including multi angle video swing analysis and more. Rafa, the assistant pro is usually working with the kids and I have had the pleasure to play with some of these young, new breed golfing wonders that Campestre is creating. I must say that nothing is more humbling for this old Gringo than playing alongside a fourteen year old scratch golfer who is not only talented, but very well mannered and with good sportsmanship skills to match. They are all a great credit to the youth golfing program that Campestre offers.

A round of golf at Campestre is an experience much more important than my final score or even the course itself and its long, illustrious history. Walking allows me to pace myself, get some exercise, share conversation with friends and think about all who have shared that same walk years or even nearly a century before. Today I am blessed to be able to share this walk with friends like Willy, Mauro and Jaime. Pacing my walk from shot to shot, hole to hole and the camaraderie shared is
Playing Partners in a Round of Golf
something I have learned to cherish - not to rush or take lightly. I have discovered that sometimes it is better to quietly celebrate the good shots, wince only slightly at the not-so-good shots and laugh at all the rest. Just being able to share this special walk, I have already won.

Relaxing at the 19th hole for a margarita or two that Maria is always quick to serve, makes the perfect ending to a wonderful day. On the way out Ernesto, our gracious host thanks us for coming and is always inviting us to participate in one or more of the upcoming tournaments. Having played in several events at Campestre, I can assure you that it is very hard to say no.

In all of my years of playing golf north of the border, including 5 years as a member of a private club, I never felt as welcome or so much at home as I am made to feel each time I step out of my car in the Campestre parking lot. The entire staff of Campestre offers a lesson in hospitality that any course could take a lesson from and one in which Mexico should feel extremely proud. I feel fortunate and honored to be able to walk these fairways and always look forward to coming back. Changing shoes after a round of golf I stop to reflect back on the day spent with good friends on the course and how wonderful life really is.

   A good walk spoiled?

      Hardly…


   

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