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Weather Visas for Mexico Travel Docs Driving in Mexico Border Crossing
Baja Healing
By The BajaGringo
Column originally appeared in the Baja Times  June 16, 2008

BajaGringo - Life in Baja as a Gringo
Walking on the beach is something I love to do and one of the few “suggestions” given to me by my doctor that I actually enjoy following. Dakota needs her exercise as well and there are few things in this world a Labrador loves more than playing in the surf; so long ago we made a mutual pack to share this healthy morning ritual.
  
One such morning while participating in our daily routine, my eyes caught the shape of a familiar figure. We had seen this quiet man on the beach many times before, always walking alone, coat collar pulled up and hands in his pockets fending off the damp morning air. At times our paths would cross and we would exchange silent nods and perhaps even a cursory smile, but hardly a word was ever spoken.
  
The Coronado Islands were lost in a dense marine layer offshore that day as I recall. I could see the man sitting on the sand, just beyond the reach of the surging tide and staring out into the mist as if he were looking for something or someone. It wasn’t until we were only steps away that he became aware of our presence and instinctively jumped up and apologized.
  
BajaGringo - Life in Baja
I assured him that there was plenty of room for us to walk around him on the beach and that he was no bother. Reaching out his hand toward Dakota, he asked if she was friendly and I couldn’t help but notice the faded Navy insignia on his tattered ball cap. Asking if he had ever served, he shared with me that he had retired from the Navy a few years ago, with San Diego his last station of duty. The next several minutes were spent sharing a funny story or two about time aboard ship and memories that most who have served would probably recognize and understand.
  
As suddenly as the conversation had begun, an awkward silence soon followed and with another nod and polite smile we each continued on our way that day. Calling Dakota to catch up as I headed back to the house it occurred to me that I hadn’t even asked his name. The thought of going back to properly introduce myself crossed my mind but I decided to just let it go. Surely we would see each other again on another morning and right then I just wanted to get home to a hot shower and breakfast. Looking back to the beach as I walked up the stairs to the house I could see that he had taken his place back on the sand, lost in his thoughts while staring out to sea. I wondered for a moment who this man really was. He was always alone. After talking with him today he now seemed very sad as well.
     
Making our way down the beach, it was Dakota who would first see him that next day and she would be rewarded with a treat the man took from his coat pocket - He had quickly figured out the shortcut to her heart and it was obvious that he genuinely liked dogs. Watching him play with Dakota I asked him if he had any pets at home. He explained that he raised and trained guide dogs for the visually impaired and was waiting for his next pup to be assigned to him. I was struck by the generosity of his act, knowing that I would have a difficult time giving up a dog that I had raised from a pup and after becoming part of our home, family and lives. Without knowing anything more about this man I was already convinced that he had a kind and giving nature.
  
BajaGringo - Living in Baja as a Gringo
We walked together for awhile on the beach that morning and I learned that he was divorced, lived alone here in Baja and had recently lost his only sibling, a sister a few months back. He wanted to go to the funeral in Michigan he said, but…
   
The sentence would float off into the air, not to be finished. I watched as he lost himself in his thoughts and his eyes were pulled once again out to sea. The pain this man tried so hard to hide would be deceived by everything that was left unspoken. Catching himself and looking back at me moments later, he realized that he had drifted off from the conversation and now forced a half-hearted smile. I said it was okay and we walked along for the next several minutes without sharing another word.
  
In the days that followed we would share more time together walking, comparing notes on life in Mexico, growing up as young kids, minor health issues that come with age and having to deal with the VA in San Diego. Listening to him paint the story of his life I could see a portion of the canvas left blank and at some point I asked about him about his parents. He grew silent for a moment and then quietly told me that they had both passed long ago. Not offering more I decided to let it go; it really was none of my business anyway. The subject changed to the weather, politics and countless topics more until it was time to get Dakota home and my work day started.
  
BajaGringo - Living in Baja as a Gringo
Days, weeks and months would pass by as we continued to share our morning walks together. I developed great respect and admiration for my friend and Dakota knew that a treat would always be found in his left coat pocket, something that he never forgot. With the passing of time the bond of friendship grew stronger, yet I could sense that there was a secret that he carried deep down inside. With each conversation he would open the door slightly further and along with the pain, I would also discover my new friend to be a very gentle, kind and spiritual soul with a generous nature.
     
What struck me was that he lived alone and never mentioned any other family or friends, other than the single mention of his sister who had recently passed and his parents many years before. He seemed to avoid the subject and I didn’t want to pressure him into divulging something that he was uncomfortable talking about. A great secret was rooted in the sadness I had sensed in him that very first day we met and talked. It always showed in his eyes and I wished for the opportunity to be able to help him. I felt powerless in many ways and unsure what I could offer him.
  
It was a Friday morning, much like any other day but the simple fact that my friend was not there waiting for us on the beach below that made that day very different. I had become accustomed to the companionship while walking each day; Dakota running, playing and even chasing an occasional seagull or two as we talked. I wondered if he was sick, had gone to San Diego for an appointment or perhaps had just chosen to sleep in.
  
BajaGringo - Living in Baja as a Gringo
The longer I walked with Dakota down the beach, my thoughts slowly turned from curiosity into genuine concern. I remembered that in the days prior he had not looked well and even walked slower. When I asked he told me that he wasn’t sleeping well and fighting low blood sugar. I had never actually been to my friends’ house but I knew where he lived as he had once pointed out his back deck from where we walked down below.
  
Pushing the gate open I could see his pickup truck parked next to the house and knocked softly on the front door a few times. I was considering what to do next when I heard the lock slide back. The door slowly opened and the pale and unshaven face of my friend appeared, wearing a bathrobe and now inviting me to come in. He seemed dazed and mentioned again that he was fighting with low blood sugar.
  
He couldn’t remember when he last had something to eat so I sat him down and headed to the kitchen to see what I could put together. I knew that he needed sugar and carbohydrates or possibly face the effects of hypoglycemia. Opening the refrigerator I saw only some stale fast food leftovers and empty shelves. Remembering the tree outside in the front garden, I brought in a dozen of the most mature oranges that I could quickly reach and was able to squeeze out a glass of juice. Mixing in some sugar I gave it to my friend with some crackers I found in a cupboard above the stove.
  
He sipped the juice and began to eat the crackers while I slowly looked around his place for the first time. The dirty dishes in the sink, living room clutter and clothes on the floor told me that it had been a long time since a woman had been in this house. Not meaning to sound sexist but as one who was once a confirmed bachelor, I know the tell-tale signs all too well. As I looked around some more it occurred to me that it had probably been a long time since ANYBODY had come through
that front door to visit. It was then that my eyes were drawn to an arrangement of several picture frames on a wall over the couch.
  
Old and discolored photographs were chronologically arranged of babies, toddlers and young children that appeared to be in first or second grade and others from family vacations, holidays and birthday parties. Looking closer I could see the resemblance of a younger man in the photographs to my friend. The man in the photographs was with an attractive woman and together with the children they appeared to form a family. On a shelf above his desk I found more photographs that were probably taken a few years later, judging by the size and ages of the children. I also noticed that he was absent from any of those later photos and thought that fact was probably significant to my friends story.
  
“That was thirty years ago”, my friend said to me and I turned to see him now standing behind me, recovering somewhat from the state in which I found him before and looking embarrassed that I had uncovered this evidence of his prior, unspoken life. I asked him if he wanted to talk about it. He made his way back to the chair where he sat down to gather himself for a moment. He then began to tell me a story of two kids who met and fell in love in a Detroit high school many years ago.

In the summer after graduation and before he entered college in the fall, they would elope. His young bride would take a full-time job during the day and he worked at night as a janitor and
BajaGringo - Living as a Gringo in Baja
security guard to help make ends meet. Somehow they managed to raise two kids during those first three years of marriage. After finishing college he landed a good job with one of the big three auto manufacturers and she quit work to stay home with the kids. She was then pregnant with their third child.
  
Life continued on like that for a couple more years. She was a stay at home mom, he had gotten a promotion, the kids were now all out of diapers and together they paid their bills, a mortgage and even began to put away a little money for a rainy day. Coming home one day from the factory he would find out that his wife was pregnant with their fourth child. She told him the very moment he walked through the door, without giving him a chance to take off his coat, his tie or first tell her that he and his entire crew had just been laid off that afternoon.
  
The economy was bad and local job prospects even worse. Unemployment would not cover their bills and eventually they would lose their home. Moving the family into the basement of his in-laws was probably only one of many excuses he found to spend more time at the bar and the beginning of a life long battle against an addiction to alcohol. An affair and being arrested for public
BajaGringo - Living the Gringo Lifestyle in Baja
intoxication didn’t help matters any and soon he was living with his sister. His wife had filed for divorce and life was quickly spiraling out of control. Sitting on his sisters back steps and considering his options, he made a decision to take the road that made the most sense to him at the time.
  
He ran.
  
That first leg of the road would make a temporary stop in Chicago, where he worked as a mechanic for a couple of months while figuring out what he would do. Finally reaching a cross road, he called his sister back home and asked her to tell his kids that he loved them. She pleaded for him to come back and try to work things out. He wanted to but he didn’t. Partly due to shame and largely due to fear, he took another option.
  
He enlisted.
  
More than ten years would pass before he received news from any of his family. His sister was able to reach him through the Navy to tell him that mom had just passed away. From a phone booth in Pensacola, Florida he would learn that his dad had passed two years before and his mom had asked for him up until the very last hour.
  
He was too ashamed to even ask about his kids. His sister would ask anyway and then share that she had been in contact with them over the years. She added that it had been awhile since she last heard from them. His ex-wife had remarried and moved to Texas, leaving no phone number or address.
  
He just sat down in that phone booth and cried. He told me that he couldn’t even remember for how long but it must have been awhile because the MP’s were called to come get him. His CO offered to give him leave to go home but he told them that he had nothing and nobody to go back to, so he just moved on. 

At that moment in the story I could feel the pain in my friends heart and together we both cried as he continued on. He shared how he fa